London Fashion Week AW 2025:
We have just returned from London Fashion Week, and whew—what an eclectic array of talent was on display this year. The weather, thankfully, stayed mostly dry, allowing attendees to dress without the usual concerns of rain dampening their spirits. However, in recent years, London Fashion Week has struggled to compete with Paris, New York, and other European fashion capitals, and this season was no exception. Many say the high cost of staging a show in London is to blame, making it harder for emerging designers to secure a spot on the schedule.
That said, a few designers seized the opportunity to make their mark, proving that London is still a force to be reckoned with. Thursday kicked off with a bang, setting the tone for a week filled with bold statements, theatrical moments, and a mix of heritage and modernity.
E.L.V. Denim
Sustainability remains a growing focus in fashion, and E.L.V. Denim reinforced its status as a leader in ethical design. The collection presented expertly tailored denim pieces with a modern, utilitarian edge. Oversized jackets, structured corsets, and patchwork detailing highlighted the brand’s dedication to craftsmanship and responsible production.
Harris Reed
There was much anticipation for fashion’s golden boy, Harris Reed, and he did not disappoint. Known for theatrical, gender-fluid designs, Reed once again blurred the lines between fashion and art. Opulent, sculptural silhouettes took center stage, with dramatic capes, corsetry, and sweeping trains reminiscent of old Hollywood glamour. The collection felt regal yet rebellious, staying true to Reed’s vision of fashion as a means of self-expression and empowerment.
Central Saint Martins MA Fashion
The future of fashion is bright, and Central Saint Martins’ MA Fashion graduates proved just that. A diverse array of designs ranged from deconstructed tailoring to experimental fabric manipulation, solidifying the school’s reputation for pushing boundaries and redefining fashion’s future.
Paul Costelloe
Friday began with a celebration of heritage and craftsmanship, courtesy of Paul Costelloe. His collection was infused with his love of Ireland, the countryside, and playful elements of color. While his signature tailoring remained a focal point, this season featured a softer, more romantic approach, with flowing fabrics and earthy tones. Bright accents—mustard yellows, deep greens, and soft pinks—brought an uplifting energy, while voluminous sleeves and dramatic outerwear added a sense of drama and movement.
S.S. Daley
A standout show, S.S. Daley brought his signature literary-inspired, romantic take on British menswear to life. This season, his designs leaned into soft tailoring, oversized silhouettes, and delicate fabrications, blurring the lines between masculinity and femininity. His knack for storytelling through clothing was evident, making his collection one of the week’s most memorable.
Mithridate
Mithridate delivered a masterclass in structured tailoring juxtaposed with fluid, deconstructed elements, creating a striking balance between precision and movement. Muted tones dominated the palette, allowing the intricate details—exaggerated collars, asymmetrical hems, and unexpected fabric pairings—to shine.
Richard Quinn
As expected, Richard Quinn brought drama, decadence, and couture-level craftsmanship to the runway. This season, Quinn explored bold floral prints, exaggerated proportions, and rich, jewel-toned fabrics. His signature maximalist approach was in full force, with intricate embellishments, structured ball gowns, and theatrical veils creating a show that felt both regal and rebellious.
Sunday Highlights
Keburia
Keburia’s show was a playful take on contemporary femininity, with structured silhouettes, exaggerated shoulders, and a striking use of pastel hues. The designer’s signature retro-futuristic aesthetic shone through, proving that bold, conceptual fashion still has a strong presence in London.
Roksanda
A master of sculptural silhouettes, Roksanda delivered a collection that was both powerful and poetic. Billowing capes, dramatic draping, and a palette of deep jewel tones, rich oranges, and soft pinks dominated the runway. The interplay of volume and structure created a sense of movement, reinforcing Roksanda’s signature ability to balance artistic expression with wearability.
Simone Rocha
One of the most anticipated shows of the week, Simone Rocha delivered a breathtaking collection that fused Victorian influences with modern rebellion. Her signature voluminous dresses and intricate embellishments were present, but this season introduced unexpected elements—structured outerwear, rich textures, and hints of metallics—that added a fresh edge to her romantic aesthetic.
Erdem
Known for his cinematic approach to design, Erdem presented a collection that felt like stepping into an old-world dream. Delicate lace, ornate embroidery, and elegant silhouettes drew inspiration from historical references, while unexpected details—layered textures, modern cuts, and a touch of grunge—kept the collection feeling fresh and contemporary.
The Future of London Fashion Week
London Fashion Week may be facing challenges, but designers like these are keeping its spirit alive with innovation, creativity, and a fearless approach to fashion. From Harris Reed’s theatrical grandeur to Simone Rocha’s poetic storytelling and Richard Quinn’s extravagant maximalism, this season proved that despite the obstacles, London remains a hub for cutting-edge fashion.
